Every job below is one we do ourselves across Deltona.
We pour driveways at four to six inches thick depending on whether it's carrying a car or a work truck, over a compacted stone base. Control joints get cut within a day of the pour so the concrete cracks along the joint lines instead of wherever it wants. Plan on about a week before you drive on it and closer to a month before it's at full strength.
Patios get graded to slope away from the house, usually a quarter inch per foot, so water doesn't sit against your foundation. We finish them broom, smooth or stamped depending on how much traction and style you're after.
We press a pattern into the surface while the concrete's still workable, then color it with a hardener or stain to look like slate, brick or cut stone. It costs less than pavers and there's no joints for weeds or ants to get into. Sealing it every couple years keeps the color from fading in Florida sun.
Shed pads, garage floors and slabs for additions all get a vapor barrier and rebar or wire mesh sized to the load on top. We check what's going on the slab before we pour, a car takes more slab than a storage shed does.
Cracked, spalled or sunken concrete doesn't always have to be torn out. We can lift a settled slab with polyurethane foam injection instead of mudjacking, and patch spalled surfaces if the concrete underneath is still solid. If the damage goes all the way through, we'll tell you it has to be replaced instead of patched.
Walkways get poured to code width and sloped for drainage, with joints spaced to control cracking on a long run. We deal with tree root heave a lot around here, sometimes it's cheaper to cut and replace one section than repour the whole path.
Pool decks get a broom or knockdown texture so they're not slick barefoot and wet. We run isolation joints where the deck meets the pool shell so the two don't crack against each other as they move independently.
If your existing slab is sound but the surface is worn, pitted or discolored, we can bond a thin overlay over it instead of tearing it out. It won't fix a structural crack or a slab that's settled unevenly, that still calls for repair first.
We wash off the top layer of cream before the concrete fully sets, exposing the stone underneath for a textured, non-slip surface. It holds up well on driveways and pool decks where a smooth finish gets slippery.
Old, cracked or heaved concrete has to come out clean before a new slab goes in. We saw-cut and break up the existing slab, haul it off, and check the base underneath before we pour again, sometimes what failed the first time was the base, not the concrete.
Four steps, and no surprises in any of them.
You tell us what you want doing, we look at what is actually there, and we ask the awkward questions early.
In writing, itemised, free. If something might add cost later we flag it now rather than at the end.
Same crew throughout. We cover your floors, keep the dust down and tidy up before we leave each day.
You point out anything you are not happy with and we fix it before the invoice, not after.
Where we're pouring concrete this month, roughly.
Questions that come up once a job is underway.
Describe the problem and we will tell you what it probably is. No obligation.
